Which Rolex Watches Hold Their Value?
No other watchmaker has quite the same recognition as Rolex. Ask anyone to name a luxury watch and the answer is almost always the same.
Rolex set out in 1905 to make simple, robust wristwatches, and the designs have changed remarkably little since. Well made and properly looked after, a Rolex will last for generations. Better still, few luxury goods hold their value so well. Many models can be worn for years and sold for close to what was paid, and some are worth well above their original price.
Here are ten of the models we see most often, and what makes each one desirable.
Submariner
Launched in 1953, the Submariner is the most famous dive watch ever made, and the basic look has barely changed. It is made with or without a date, in steel, gold or a mix of the two, which Rolex calls Rolesor. The steel models are the most sought after, above all the classic black dial and bezel and the green versions collectors call the ‘Kermit’ and the ‘Hulk’.
Daytona
Rolex’s chronograph has been its most wanted watch for a generation. Steel Daytonas with black or white dials have long sold above their retail price on the secondary market, and vintage examples, including the ‘Paul Newman’ dials, are among the most valuable wristwatches ever sold.
GMT-Master II
Developed in the 1950s with Pan Am for its pilots, the GMT shows a second time zone with an extra hour hand and a rotating bezel. The two-colour bezels each have a nickname, and the red and blue ‘Pepsi’ and the blue and black ‘Batman’ are the most popular.
Datejust
Introduced in 1945 for the firm’s 40th anniversary, the Datejust was the first self-winding, waterproof wristwatch to show the date in a window on the dial. It comes in a huge range of sizes, metals and dials, and the steel and yellow gold Rolesor version on a Jubilee bracelet is, for many, the classic Rolex.
Day-Date
The flagship of the range, the Day-Date has only ever been made in gold or platinum, and is often called the ‘President’ after its bracelet and its famous wearers. Gem-set examples and rare dials can be worth far more than standard models.
Yacht-Master
Launched in 1992, the Yacht-Master has softer lines than the Submariner and a more luxurious feel. It was the first Rolex fitted with the Oysterflex strap, a metal blade covered in high-performance elastomer.
Oyster Perpetual
Simple and perfectly proportioned, the Oyster Perpetual is the entry point to the brand: a steel, time-only watch with no date to interrupt the dial. The brightly coloured dials introduced in recent years have made some versions surprisingly hard to find.
Air-King
The Air-King name dates from the 1940s and honours the pilots of the Royal Air Force. Today’s version has a bold, legible dial in the spirit of a pilot’s instrument, and often costs less to buy than the other sports models.
Sea-Dweller
The Submariner’s bigger brother was developed in 1967 for professional saturation divers and is waterproof to 1,220 metres. Its red text and robust build make it one of the brand’s best combinations of style and substance.
Milgauss
Designed for scientists and engineers, the Milgauss resists magnetic fields of up to 1,000 gauss, hence the name. Its lightning-bolt seconds hand and green-tinted crystal made it a cult favourite. Rolex discontinued the model in 2023, which has only added to its appeal.
What affects value
Two watches of the same model can differ widely in value. Reference number, dial variant, bracelet, condition and service history all matter, and an original box and papers can add significantly. For the most popular steel models, secondary market prices can be well above retail, so a watch insured at its purchase price may be badly underinsured.
Coram James values watches for insurance, probate, divorce and sale. Call 020 7305 7360 or contact us.
Adapted from an article first published in 2020, updated October 2026.
